…. An international holiday where we didn’t have to weigh our bags in advance to check we were within limits!
No this isn’t Southampton!
Embarkation Day – 1
This time it was a fabulous cruise on The Anthem of the Seas – our first time cruising with Royal Caribbean – but the special added bonus for us was that it was from a UK port – Southampton – about 2.5 hours drive for us.
We were warned well in advance that Southampton would be grid lock on embarkation day – 5 cruise ships in (and a boat show?). So we decided to take no risks and stay in a nearby hotel the night before – with the added bonus that we could meet up with Pam’s cousin and her husband who we normally never see apart from at weddings or funerals. Great idea, apart from the fact that actually finding the Doubletree Southampton, set in a wooded glade, was a pain in the proverbial and we actually had to retrace steps on various bits of motorway before we finally found it.
Very welcoming hotel – as Hilton Honors Diamond members we got free car parking (a fiver a night), a room upgrade, a drinks voucher, buffet breakfast, two bottles of water and two chocolate cookies. For an overnight stay, it was fine although the pillows were, to say the least, insubstantial – it was a big enough room, with a forest view. But the hotel was strangely understaffed – a busy bar had one regular member of staff and a trainee – and the weirdest thing was that instead of the usual rammy at the bar as everyone sought to get served and the bartenders didn’t have a clue who was next, this time people formed an orderly queue and were strangely patient albeit with occasional frustration shown through the rolling of eyes 😉
Had a very nice couple of hours with cousin and then a couple of appetizers as a snack. They were very quickly served and were very tasty. Breakfast in the morning was what you would expect from a buffet breakfast, but was quite poor – cold and not tasty. The strange highlight of the stay was the genuine marks of a bird on the outside of a corridor window, wing outspread as if to try and stop itself.
Best part of the hotel – booked using Hilton Honors points!
Embarkation Day
Preparation for this starts, of course, with an ever growing Facebook group. If you had questions, they were quickly asked, just once in a while with the “It’s already been asked and answered” snide response. One gentleman seemed to know everything that needed to be known and a bit more – in fact we think he may have made similar contributions to our Disney Panama Canal cruise many years ago.
One of the key things we did learn was that Royal Caribbean open the check-in booking process at midnight 30 days before your cruise – and if you’re on the system early enough, you can select an early embarkation time. So we duly stayed up till midnight and managed to book an embarkation time of 11:30. TBH, it never actually mattered on the day.
Because we had been warned about gridlock and the fact that a 15 minute journey from our hotel could take over an hour, we left the hotel around 9:15. Guess what – the journey only took us 15 minutes and we were far too early even to get into our prebooked dock car park. So we parked up in a car park nearby for a while till 40 minutes in we realised it was a pay and display car park with the first 30 minutes free – so (with fingers crossed) we quickly exited heading for our dock gate entry and it was open. Parked our car, and took the cases out of the boot (trunk for the aliens reading this) – and they were immediately collected by gents in a white van – but that was fine – and we didn’t see them again till they were somewhat randomly spread along our stateroom corridor.
Strolled across to the terminal and even though we were an hour before our scheduled check-in, we were straight through the system and on-board within 15 minutes. Amazingly well organised with great staff who would have a bit of chat with you as you headed from land-side to sea-side.
First things first (not quite thirst things first 😉)
We’ve had credit card shock when we’ve come off cruises before where we were paying as you go for drinks, specialty restaurants …. And therefore we were more than happy to consider the pre-paid packages meaning we would not have any shocks at the end of the cruise.
Royal Caribbean quite aggressively market excursions, drinks packages, dining packages, internet packages, etc. We decided we didn’t want to pay expensive prices with high margins for excursions, and ended up privately pre-booking just one excursion – more on that later. In terms of drinks, we changed our minds several times, and Royal Caribbean changed their prices several times. What we did learn from the Facebook group was that you could book drinks or dining package and pre-pay. But if the price went down, you could cancel and get a full refund, whilst rebooking at the lower rate. In terms of dining, we chose the steak house (Chops Grill – an American Steakhouse) + 1, without needing to specify the second. With that one, we only went through one cancel and rebook as the price went down. Very happy with the end price and the quality we got – more on that later. But first thing on ship was to confirm and slightly modify the date of our Chops reservation, and to make a reservation for last day at the weird and wonderful restaurant Wonderland (themed around Alice in Wonderland). One theatre show (Spectra’s Cabaret) required pre-booking and we had done that online in advance.
But the drinks package was the most fluid (see what I did there 😉). With drinks priced generally at up to $15, it was easy to work out what would be an advantageous price for us. In the end we went through 5 or 6 book, cancel and rebook as price fluctuated – and sometimes it went back up. And we left well alone. I can’t remember whether the price was Pounds or dollars – but although we first saw it at the 90+ per day per person level, it generally hovered in the 60s, starting around 68 and going down to 62 – and then, one early morning as we lay abed with our morning tea / coffee browsing through the Facebook thread, Pam exhibited one of her mild moments of excitement and screamed “It’s gone down to 44” – someone on the group had just flagged that up. Now think how many $15 drinks that allows you straight away if you are thinking of the break-even point. That was our last cancel and rebook. By lunchtime that day, the price had gone back up to 64 and never fell below that again. Was it deliberate or an enormous mistake by some poor now-fired marketing assistant – we will never know, but trust me, that was fabulous value, and we made the best of it – more, of course, on that later.
Actually, why not now?
So, as soon as any reservations are made, the first thing that folk do is head for a celebration drink. We went straight to the Schooner Bar – Pam was straight onto her favourite Bloody Mary and I asked for something rum based with pineapple in it – it came with some grenadine colouring and was delicious. The Schooner Bar said to us – “You feel really comfortable here don’t you?” And we immediately said yes, (this kind of conversation only happens after strong drink of course) – and the Schooner Bar became our favourite place especially as it had some great trivia and puzzle competitions, and it was a great place for casual conversation – one of the regular highlights of our trip – chatting to different folk.
And did the drinks package pay for itself – too Bloody Mary right! Although it does get worrying when the bar staff start calling you by name 😉. Whether it was cocktails, wine, diet cokes, coffee (Starbucks or Lavazza) or bottles of water – we definitely appreciated the package and made more than full value from it – and kept changing our drinks of choice – I very much started to enjoy Aperol Spritz, much to my surprise.
And the Dining Package?
In general, we really enjoyed our food experiences – apart from the deserts in the buffets (Windjammer and Solarium Bistro – more on the Solarium later). On our most recent cruising experience on MSC World Europa, we had very quickly realised that the over-crowded manic buffet was not for us, but in Windjammer, the principal buffet on Anthem, we were able to move about comfortably, tended to be able to get the same table each visit – although as the lunchtime session was moving on, there was one occasion when the staff were actively asking customers who had completed their meal to move as there was a bit of a queue forming. But Windjammer food was varied, very tasty and more than satisfactory – we ate there several times. The Solarium Bistro was much smaller, had a small range of cooked food (varying day to day) and a nice range of cold cuts and basic cheeses – and great breads!!!! It had the best Beef and Guiness pie I’ve had in any restaurant.
We did eat pizza once in Sorrentos pizza restaurant – and that was once more than we really should have – quite basic pizzas with incredibly tough cheese to chew (try saying that fast three times, especially if you are chewing the cheese 😊 ).
Apart from the two specialty restaurants, Chops and Wonderland, we didn’t eat in any of the other restaurants – the sushi one looked quite nice if you enjoy sushi. Jamie’s Italian Restaurant being flagged as a specialty restaurant is a bit of a contradiction for us – we’ve eaten in his UK restaurants before (now closed through bankruptcy) and not found the food anything special – and the menu on the Anthem just reflected same old, same old – and you have to ask yourself the question – on a luxury specialty experience, why the **** would you want to sit on old fashioned basic uncomfortable metal chairs – weird!!!
Chops was very nice – unlike our previous MSC experience where the steak house package only gave you a limited choice off the menu (albeit perfectly acceptable and incredibly tasty), on Anthem (I should actually be calling it The Beautiful Anthem of the Seas as the Captain and crew always called it on any of the loudspeaker announcements) the dining package gives you access to the full menu. We happily enjoyed the Chops experience with very tasty Filet as our main choice, and some excellent wine accompanying (part of the drinks package).
Our Wonderland experience – well we had deliberately saved that till the last evening (on a sea day) but couldn’t get in till 8pm, so were more than a bit hungry when we arrived – and it was very much a WOW experience. We knew in advance that Wonderland was either loved or hated – it is not a conventional menu or conventional food. It’s what might be called Illusion food – nothing is as it seems – a tomato is not a tomato, an apple is not an apple, an olive is not an olive – sometimes using molecular gastronomy techniques …. and we loved it. This is about your imagination, about surprises, about unexpected tastes. Even the start is a bit of an illusion – you are presented with a blank menu and you use a paint brush to bring up the menu – and its various components of fire, ice, land and water. The cocktails are unique to Wonderland as well – Pam’s had a glass with candy floss / cotton candy on top over which the waiter then poured the drink – and the candy floss dissolved into the drink and Voila – a Cosmopolitan! The only thing you actually choose is a main course and everything else is presented to you with detailed explanation partly before, and partly after the course. We didn’t like it – we loved it! And by golly, we were full up by the end of the meal.
I should also mention the main dining rooms – we sampled breakfast and lunch there as well as dinner. Food was very tasty. Instead of being allocated a fixed time and table for dinner, we chose what Royal Caribbean call My Time Dining. Which means you can prebook a time to suit you – not always available at specific times as the dining room may already be full. When we turned up for our first booking we were happy to share a table with others. We didn’t wait long and found ourselves at an empty table for 8 – and over the next 30 minutes more folk joined the table – and we all bonded almost immediately – later in the evening we were enjoying our chatting to a point where the waiters had to give us the slightly more than subtle hint that we should head out. Somehow or other, the great hostess checking us in to subsequent My Time Dining evenings recognised that we were from what she called The Happy Table – and we were given the same table and the same dining companions. It is really impressive when you are personally recognised by staff in busy places like Main Dining Room, handling hundreds of people each night.
All in all – dining experience was excellent and fun!
The Stateroom
No complaints here – with one slight difference from previous experiences – the bed was by the balcony – so you could lie abed and watch the scenery. Two wardrobes, and a good walk-in shower en-suite. Made up by the steward once a day – there is a choice of morning or evening – but he had no slots left for the morning so our stateroom was made up nightly – which actually suited us as we often had a mid afternoon break in the stateroom. The balcony was fine – two comfortable chairs, foot rests and a small table – what more do you need?
Entertainment
Three production shows and lots of live music, quizzes etc. One show, Spectra’s Cabaret, has to be pre-booked as it is in a slightly smaller venue than the other two (Two70 at the aft end of the ship). You can’t fault the singing and the dancing, but Spectra is a bit of a puzzle really as to “Is there a point to this?” or is it just another hour I could have used to better purpose – I quite enjoyed it, Pam didn’t – a 50:50 split!
In the Royal Theatre – a lovely theatre – there are two different shows – the first, The Gift, is again very talented but what was the purpose of the dragon, or the railway engine …. two people we were chatting to earlier in the week were definitely not going to see it because they were both widowed and The Gift is about a grieving widowed husband and his two children and somehow or other his late wife and the spirit world seeking to help him to a better place. Well done, but again we never really understood what story line there was, if any.
The last production show of the week shown three times, Day 6 evening and Day 7 (Sea Day) matinee and evening, and running for two hours, was the classic West End show We Will Rock You, featuring the music of Queen . We’d seen it several times in London and loved it and were very much looking forward to it. It’s very popular on-board so we had to get there about 45 minutes early to make sure of a decent seat. The production was very good and the audience definitely enjoyed it – but remember this is an American ship and they Americanised it – and not to its advantage as far as a mainly UK audience was concerned. Suddenly the home of Rock’n’roll was Gracelands – OH, NO IT WASN’T. But over all we did enjoy it. The audience even got their phones out as torches at the end.
Quizzes and puzzles were a regular feature – and much to our surprise we actually won three of the trivia quizzes – to be rewarded with trivial prizes (beer coozies). Great fun – great entertainment staff from various nationalities – it’s a great feat being able to be funny in a foreign language (Angelo the Italian who reckoned he could speak English better than some Brits – citing Geordies for example 😉 ). The real highlight of these quizzes was the number of different folk you chatted to and laughed with.
There was also lots of live music around the ship – piano, guitar, rock band. We were particularly impressed by the rock band (the ultimate party band) who could play a wide range of material from Abba to The Greatest Showman as well as much more rock oriented material. Very talented with great guitar and drum solos. And a real nice bunch of folk – we chatted to them a bit after an early evening sound check. They played in Anthem’s Music Hall – a very nice, very comfortable two story venue – ground floor with stage and dance floor surrounded by seating, and upstairs balcony on three sides, with probably the most comfortable seats on the ship, and a bar on each floor. After The Schooner Bar this became our second go-to place for relaxation and entertainment.
Through the medium of music, I can now transition to our preferred daytime area where the background music being played all the time was non-intrusive but very much to our taste – artists like Shania Twain, Taylor Swift, Miley Cyrus …. and that was ….
The Solarium
At the front end, Anthem has this wonderful area called The Solarium – an area surrounded by and roofed by glass with multiple small pools, great areas for sun-loungers, lots of greenery, multiple levels, even swings.
I suspect that in hot humid climates, like the Med or the Caribbean, this area could potentially get unbearable, even though many windows can be opened. (Interestingly one of the very large roof panels had suffered some damage and was completely crazed – the area directly beneath was roped off for safety but it did pose the question – how and when could they actually repair that massive pane of glass.
We loved the Solarium and Pam went into the pools several times over the week. Bar service was great – albeit that by the second day, one of the staff was greeting us as Mr Allan and Miss Pamela by the second morning. We also loved the Solarium Bistro as previously mentioned.
The Journey
The Norse Gods smiled on us – from leaving Southampton to our return 7 days later, the seas were calm as a mill-pond, and the weather was great – until the last day sailing down the North Sea in a thick sea fog for most of the morning with the fog-horn going every two minutes.
Leaving Southampton had one disappointment – the Disney Dream sailed out 5 minutes ahead of us (we actually had to wait for her to go) but even though we stood on an upper deck watching her sail out from a nearby dock, we never heard her horn – we had expected a horn-off between the ships but to no avail.
Day two was all at sea – and unbelievably calm sailing.
Day three we sailed into Stavanger – a pretty harbour area for strolling round with a small market area selling lots of Norse woolen jumpers etc. The major activity was the number of folk getting suited up and life jacketed for RIB tours. I have to confess that our mobility, expecially mine, is more limited nowadays, and even strolling round the harbour was tiring, especially as we couldn’t find anywhere open for a coffee or a drink – not opening till 11 or 11:30 – so we, having enjoyed our stroll, just headed back to the ship and the Solarium – after all, when you are cruising on a big ship, the ship is the destination every bit as much as the ports.
Day four was Olden – and the only time we planned and prebooked an excursion, albeit not booked through Royal Caribbean (their markups!!!!). Our adventure was one of the steepest cable cars in the world taking us on a five minute journey to a height of just over 1000 metres. A shuttle bus to take you the 10 minutes there and then a brief wait before entering the cable car which could hold 48 people.
I’ll divert for a moment – when you’re heading to the fjords at the start of autumn, you have to pack for all weathers – so you pack layers – from light tops, through jumpers and cardigans, to wet weather gear. And when you’re going to the top of a mountain where snow still may be found, its boots and thick socks as well.
Stavanger had been dry and warm which we realised as we strolled around in trousers / leggings and jackets – so when we got to Loen for the skylift we had gone a little less dressed for very cold even though we were going to the top of the mountain where there was still some snow around.. The weather was very overcast when we got off the ship. We had prebooked tickets – DON’T – the queue to collect the tickets was much longer than just walking up to buy them without a booking. But eventually we were on the shuttle and ten very scenic minutes later we were at the Skylift. The cloud base was low and you couldn’t see the top of the lift. And it was quite cool at the ground level.
We had to wait for a car to depart and a new one to arrive – apart from a tiny seat its all standing. With a jerk, (no, not Steve Martin), the car takes off and in seconds you realise just how steep the climb is as you pull away from the two fjords below. And then two minutes later, a collective WOW! from the passengers as we break through the cloud into the most stunning scenery and the surrounding mountains. Up ahead of us is this stunning building which is part skylift terminus and part two storey restaurant / café. To be honest it resembles a kind of villain’s hideaway– like Ernst Stavro Blofeld or Tony Stark Ironman. It’s surrounded by viewing areas and helipad. And is incredibly warm – how weird, cool at the bottom and hot at the top.
We got a table in the restaurant for coffee / hot chocolate – and Pam went for a wander round outside. When she came back she was insistent that we both went out to the main viewing point – and down below us as the cloud started to break, we could see the two fjords and quite quickly Anthem of the Seas could clearly be seen as could MSC Virtuosa. (Anthem was dockside and we could just wander off, whereas MSC Virtuosa was anchored mid fjord and passengers had to be tendered off – sucks to be them 😉). We can see paragliding going on, there are various walking trails, as well as a zip line. But to us, this was the one thing we wanted to do and it has far exceeded our expectations – and seeing the two ships way way down below was simply wonderful.
Day 5 was Geiranger – a very small area around the dock with some souvenir shopping, but to get anywhere worth seeing was a bit of an uphill hike – and we decided against it – so 30 minutes on shore by the ship and then back aboard – and head to the Solarium to be greeted with “Hello Mr Allan and Miss Pamela – how are you this morning?”. Another lovely lazy day. We sailed mid afternoon, and the captain treated us to a 360 turn in quite a narrow fjord, so that everyone had a chance to see the famous Seven Sisters waterfall – amazing what these ships can do nowadays.
Day 6 – Haugesund – a lovely, quite prosperous white buildings / red roofs town and lovely quayside apartments next to a large busy marina.
Famous for its herring industry – can you imagine a six storey warehouse with 40,000 barrels of salted herring. Woah! – how do you avoid smelling it everywhere? But nowadays, and right beside the dock, its all about oil platforms and wind farms at sea. We had choices here – a small fee for a shuttle bus into the town, an open top guided tour bus, or a Land Train (like the French Petit Train), and we chose the latter – a 70 minute meander round the town with audio commentary, a ten minute stop by a famous statue (Harold the Long Hair who united Norway) and then a drop-off / pick-up in the town centre by the main shopping area. This was very much a polo-shirt and shorts day – very warm in blinding sunshine, and we enjoyed our stroll around the shops – found a great independent coffee bar – and found souvenirs for Joy and David.
Day 7 – at sea sailing down the North Sea while we relaxed in the Solarium, listening to the foghorn, and then packing and putting our cases out before quizzing, chatting, trying different bars and finally heading to the amazing Wonderland for our last dinner.
Disembarkation
One of the unusual thing on Anthem was that you could select your disembarkation time – we chose 07:30, they allocated us 07:15, and in fact we were off at 07:00 – no passports required – just walk straight out – cases all lined up by disembarkation group. We grabbed the cases and were quickly across the car park, car loaded and off by 7:20. Home at 9:40 and started unloading the car – and that’s when we realised – we had collected the wrong red case, belonging to a Glasgow couple!!!!!
Fortunately they had a phone number on their luggage label and we were able to contact them – they were driving to Scotland and we were able to intercept their journey at a Motorway Service station about 30 minutes back down our route from Southampton. Many apologies from us but all was good. Apart from our missing suitcase.
I did a spot of on-line searching and found contact details for Royal Caribbean’s baggage agent in Southampton – e-mailed them and within minutes they called me back and confirmed they had our case and would arrange to get it couriered to us – and as I sit here a week later, the case has just been delivered this afternoon – yuk – dirty washing!
So, once again, does size matter
I asked the question when we sailed earlier this year on MSC World Europa – and its 6,800 passenger capacity definitely was not for us to repeat. Anthem can carry just under 4,200 at full double passenger capacity and we were told she was about 400 passengers below full capacity. We never felt over-crowded, we were never short of somewhere comfortable to sit / relax. Our experience from start to finish on the beautiful Anthem of the Seas was everything we hoped for and more – loved it!